Nicole Kipar
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Female Hairstyles & Headdresses
Hurluberlu
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Hurluberlu (scatterbrain) hairstyle, ca. 1671. Ribbon bows à la Fontange on the top of the head, called Duchesse, 1682-3. Soon replaced by Fontange à la Sultane, here with a scarf of crapaudaille (striped), 1685-6.
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Ribbon bows multiply among the lace flounces on the top of the head, ca. 1688. Hair being prepared to receive the wire construction of the Fontange. The front part stiffened with eggwhite. Towards 1695 the construction becomes tall and narrow, fairly light, with long cornets flowing over the nape of the neck.
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The kiss-curls on the brow are called fripons or guigne- galants, ca. 1695. The ribbon bows on top, seen from the back, are called culebutte. The Fontange cap has different forms, when it reveals the ears, it is called effrontée (shameless).
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The hair is dressed for evening court wear with precious stones, the guepes and papillons. (wasps and butterflies) At the end of the 17th century the Fontange took over the palissade form and style, wide and forward-tilted. Better view of jewels set in the hair, the guepes and papillons.

Engravings by Bonnart, Trouvain and J.D. de Saint-Jean (details).

 

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