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English
mantua from the V&A museum, made from pale blue
silk brocaded in silver. The design is floral and large
scale, showing fantastic fruits and leaves on looped
trails. |
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The
dress had been altered, showing stitch marks at the
robe and petticoat, suggesting it was altered at the
hip and waist, maybe around 1760, if it had been formal
1750s wear before. |
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The
bodice is lined with linen, and the petticoat and robe
were originally lined with silk. |
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Detail
of the draped back skirt. It is draped back in a basque
with inner cords and silver buttons. |
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The
folds of the wide sleeves are held in position by two
lead weights, which are stitched inside the back of
the deep, turned back cuff. |
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The
cap with the lappets is made from Brussels bobbin lace,
1700s. By this time the fontange head-dress had finally
vanished and there are no more tall tiers to be balanced
on top of the coiffure. |
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The
pleats run over the shoulder to form double robings,
to merge with the skirt. |
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The
back pleats are unstitched, only held in position with
two bands of brocaded silk. |
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The
pleats at the centre back are stitched. The bodice is
lined with white, the facing is pink silk. |
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Detail
of the fastening of the draped skirt. |