Nicole Kipar's late 17th century costume history

The 1660s
Restoration Costume Comes to Life

Part 1, Page 3
Lower Class Women Study Gallery

Part 1	Part 2	Part 3	Part 4	Part 5
Lower Class Women and Men	Gentry and Aristocracy, Women	Gentry and Aristocracy, Men	The Whole Look: Accessories	Costume Focus: Women's Headwear & Neckwear

All of the following images open in a new window for a detailed study. All of them are details taken from paintings.
Please note that though there wasn't a distinction made in the 17th century between the different layers of skirts (they were all called petticoat), I make a distinction for clarification between over-skirt or petticoat and under-skirt or petticoat.

1660 She wears a coif and bodice, linen kerchief tucked into the neck. Skirt above ankle. Maid servant.	Large straw hat and front laced boned bodice. Shift sleeves are rolled up. Cut-out latchet shoes. Milk maid.
Long, wide jacket, drawn in at the waist. White linen neckerchief. Peasant.	Long white apron, dark skirt, jacket with neckerchief and tight coif. Peasant.
Front laced lightly boned bodice, sleeves not tied on. Hat worn over linen coif. Mules and red stockings. Tavern wench.	1661 Seller in middle wears sleeves on her front laced bodice. Tightly wound coif. Seller on left wears hat over linen coif. Housewife on right wears protective apron over comfortable fur edged jacket, probably yellow velvet. Market women.
1662 Wares carried on large basket on her head. Skirt hiked up and shift sleeves rolled up. Street vendor.	Blackwork embroidered coif, modest lacing on red bodice. Note the opening on the right side of the skirt to reach to the pocket worn tied around her waist underneath. Cut-out latchet shoes. Domestic lace maker.
1663 Apron over skirt, sheer black neckerchief. Small coif at back of her head. Affluent peasant dancing in fashionable dress.	Well-dressed children. Two petticoats show, and neckerchief knotted.
1664 Wide sleeves on the shift, not gathered in at the wrist. Long broad apron knotted in the back below her waist. Tavern wench.	Back-laced jacket apron over her skirt. The drawstrings of her hood can be seen in the back of her neck. Peasant child.
Small clip-on coif at the back of her head, large apron and circular linen cape over jacket. Peasant, perhaps tavern cook.	1665 Front-laced bodice, blue skirt. Neckerchief tucked in. Domestic servant.
Mules and red stockings with red skirt. Brown apron, probably made from canvas (made in the period from hemp, finer than the modern canvas). Domestic servant.	Maid servant on the right: fashionable attire, dark petticoat with lacing, yellow lined skirt hiked up for ease when working. Compare her with the dress of her mistress on the left.
Small black coif, apron over skirt. Nursery maid servant.	Skirt above ankle, bodice sleeves not tied on. Domestic servant.
1666 White linen partlet over red front laced bodice. Dark skirt, no shoes. Hat over coif. Old fashioned. Fish seller.	1667 Brown skirt and long jacket, blue apron. Domestic servant.
Front laced red boned bodice, open jacket worn over it. Lose coif. Fashionable attire.	Simple linen coif, perhaps even a piece of linen tied at the back of the head. Peasant.
Elaborate hood, red jacket. Fashionable attire.	Partlet over sleeveless jerkin old fashioned style. Blue apron, cap over coif, very old fashioned. Fish seller.
Straw hat over coif, apron and red over skirt hiked up showing dark petticoat which is very short. Boned bodice. Domestic servant.	Circular linen cape over jacket for protection. Fashionable hair style with ringlets. Cook or kitchen maid.
Fashionable hood and bodice, laced petticoat. Over-skirt hiked up. Maid servant.	Sleeveless jacket over bodice, tight coif, blue apron. Peasant, old fashioned clothes.
Linen partlet over jacket. Coif in the back of the head, clipped on with a wire construction inside. Domestic servant.	Shift with collar under blue, fashionably boned bodice. Sleeves rolled up. Cook.