|1660s note her garters, this well off middle class woman passed out drunk
and is ridiculed
|| Same woman's neckerchief (triangular with tassels)
||1660-65 Is she wearing a partlet tucked into her bodice?
|1658-60 Partlet over her bodice, linen hood tied under the chin.
||1658-60 Clip-on coif, how was the flat round bit in the back made? It covers
the hair bun
||1658-60 Little girl wearing a 'biggin cap' still the same construction as
the Viking Coppergate cap.
|1658-60 Decorated biggin cap, all girls in the paintings wear those.
||1660 a dark gauze (?) probably woollen hood over the linen one, turned
back over the forehead. Quite chic
||1660 I have only found one representation of such a type of dark gauzy
hood and chaperone combi
|1660 gathered in the back of the neck, it might actually be gathered onto
a band for stabilisation. Wire might be in this one as well.
||1660 she is sick in this painting, simple hood tied under the chin as above.
||1660 interesting construction, this seems to be two layers, the clip-on
coif underneath and whatever it is tied over it.
|1660 Tassels on the corners of her kerchief and lace on the edges of the
coif that seems to have loose corners in the back of her neck and
held only by a drawstring (?) around the hair bun.
||1660 She is just slipping out of bed and seems to have a circular linen
chaperone slung over one shoulder. See some of the other paintings
for those circular coverings.
||1660 his seems to be a hood like mine, which frames the face and can cover
the cleavage quite successfully.
|1660 Little girl's highly decorated biggin cap.
||1660 She is wearing one of those black coifs underneath which are so tight
they could be called a skull cap. They point into the forehead. The
linen on top seems to be just loose.
||1660 DO I see a drawstring in the back? It appears to be ties hanging in
the back of her neck below the bun.
|1660 Lovely type of hood which I think looks very flattering, but am not
too sure how it is made. Then again I don't understand anything 3-dimensional
||1660 Hood tied with a red ribbon
||1660s 'round partlet' or 'linen cape' being worn over clothing. This type
of protection and covering seems to be very common, in fact more common
than I thought.
|1660 Clip-on coif in linen with loose linen draped over it. Unsure what
she has tucked into her bodice.
||1660 The maid wears this black 'skull cap' but it appears it doesn't cover
her hair bun? Almost just like a toque.
||1660 This old woman wears an old fashioned form of headcovering, a caul.
This isn't a surprise, old people tended to be dressed in much earlier
|1660-62 Tiny wired coif, the decorative finials can be seen pressing into
||1660-62 Another example with a black hood over a linen one.
||1660-65 An old woman with the same style of tight wired coif and a tightly
wound one on top of it. Any ideas how the top one is made? The ruffle
around her neck is part of a partlet, as worn in the 16th century.
|1660-67 Sick woman showing the tight cloth going across her forehead. The
hood is worn open and elegantly hanging down. She seems to wear a
high necked partlet/ chaperone tucked into her jacket.
||1660-70 Sick woman wearing another of those framing hoods like mine over the
tight forehead cloth (which might be a tight cap or just a wound strip)
This time there is lace around the edge of the front of the hood.
||1660s The old woman wears a most curious head-dress, but she seems to be
a nanny or nurse to the young woman. It appears the tight forehead
cloth and the wide open framing hood are peculiar to her status.
|1660s Peasants wearing kerchiefs in their cleavages.
||1660s The front edge is folded back on this wide hood which is made out
of a fine linen.
||1660s This nursing mother wears one of the open hoods that are tied with
their long ends. Often, like in this picture, those are folded back,
probably pinned in place somewhere, and worn loose.
|1660s The drunken women from above shows not only how the untied hood falls
off her head, but also the jacket that slipped to the side and the
linen partlet or tucker beneath has slipped away as well.
||1660s Front of hood folded back and hood itself tied with a blue silk ribbon.
||1660s She wears an interesting cap/hat over her hood, because this cap looks
a lot like the male 1700 indoor caps that were made presumably from
black/dark wool and fur edged/lined.
|1660s She definitely doesn't wear anything like a tucker or kerchief
while the one in the background wears one. This is NOT the norm, and
the painter is known for his naughty scenes. Note the small coifs
again and the straight 'ladder lacing' of the bodice/corset of the
one in the front. Also note the length of the shifts.
||1660s Note this working maid's flat shoes and the shortness of her petticoat.
Both skirt and apron are pulled up. She does however appear to wear
stiffening in her bodice. I like the colour combination a lot.
||1661 Tiny picture, but the maid in the background has tassels on her kerchief
that is pinned at the neck as all the others.
|1661 This wealthy lady wears the wide open hood tied with a red ribbon
and a gauzy cape/shawl over her shoulders. Note that it appears the
wealthy house wives and ladies wear the open billowy hoods, the working
maids wear the close fitting coifs.
||1661 She wears what I'd describe as a 'round partlet' and what many are
wearing. It has a neck band and it fitting in that it appears to be
circular or roundish, is tucked into the cleavage, it is open in the
front and often tied with a linen ribbon or pinned close.
||1661-62 Housewife to the right wears fancy fur edged jacket and pristine apron
over it. She wears the circular 'round partlet or chaperone' OVER
the jacket this time. It is open at the neck and appears to have a
wide collar. The marketwoman to the left wears her round partlet tucked
|1662 This is the ONLY example of an embroidered coif that I came across
in the period we portray, other than the children's' biggin caps.
This one has Blackwork on it, but beware, it is the ONLY example.
White linen or black (linen? Silk? Fine wool?) is common.
||1662 Another VERY fashionable Dutch house wife in finest lawn apron that
is almost see-through and a lawn gauze /batiste or even silk organza
kerchief which is worn just like the linen ones but is much fancier.
||1662-65 This almost looks as if she had plucked her hairline. The open framing
hood of this rich Dutch lady is rolled/turned back over the forehead.
|1660s This hood shows a large lace edging, it looks exaggerated due to the
nature of the miniature, but the construction is essentially the same,
with the 'bun bag' in the bag, held on by a drawstring or ties.
||1660s Another one of the small clip-on coifs that are held on with a tight
band/ties around the 'bag' for the hair bun. She seems to be wearing
another of the smaller round partlets in her bodice.
||1660s This is interesting, I am not so sure where the linen ties come from
under her chin. The black ribbon seems to tie the rather voluminous
hood, which fits snugly over the coiffure and its front is turned
|1660s This old woman with her niddy-noddy is dressed very old fashioned.
She wears what is essentially a 16th c. partlet with attached ruff
on the neckband. Her head covering is another of the curious tightly
bound ones over a small coif.
||1662-65 The maid from the preceding picture wears the clip-on coif. This paintings
shows the construction best: the 'bag for the bun' in the back is
held on by a tightened drawstring, you can see the bow beneath the
'bag'. The decorative finial is visible at her jaw.
||1663 A variation of the coif to the left, this time made fro a very gauzy
material and edged with lace. The front edges are turned back instead
of pressing into the jaw. She wears a 'round chaperone' over her jacket
with a small stand-up collar. There's a surviving one from the 1620s.
|1663 The three-pointed coif is very similar to the Elizabethan ones, with
one point going low into the forehead, then curving back behind the
ear and coming towards the front below the ear. She wears a linen
strip of slightly shaped hood over it, it must be pinned to the coif
||1663 This sick woman wears probably one of the tight forehead cloths and
over it the open hood/strip of linen. She wears a long circular 'round
partlet' that is closed at the neck and falls to her elbows. She wears
over jacket and skirt a wide, long pristine apron.
||1663 Housewife and maid. It is actually unclear from the painting who is
who, both are very well dressed in silk, velvet and fur, both wear
|1663 A young woman who just got out of bed. The jacket is open and loose
over her stays, and she is in the process of putting on her stockings.
The hood is tied snugly around her head.
||1663-65 Young woman who appears to be wearing almost the same as the one to
the left.This wouldn't be a surprise because both were painted by
Jan Steen, props and clothing was often use for several paintings.
||1663-65 The maid in the back is sombrely and neatly dressed as so many. The
woman in the front wears her jacket open, revealing a front laced
corset. She may be wearing a high necked smock instead of a low cut
one plus partlet or tucker. The hood seems to be just a strip of linen
probably pinned to a coif underneath.
|1663-65 Children playing. The girl in the background definitely wears a 16th
c. partlet, which isn't so 16th century after all...
||1663-65 Middle aged woman with tucker in her jacket and rolled back snug hood.
||1660s Old woman dressed plainly and austere, though with rich materials.
She is wearing a kerchief which is is shaped, from a stiff linen.
One of those is exhibited in the new British Galleries in the V&A.
That one is earlier, but the cut is still the same, elderly people
usually dressed old fashioned.
|1660s She is wearing a square kerchief around her neck and one of the open
hoods that are pinned on a coif underneath.
||1664 Another old woman, she is wearing a square kerchief with tassels on
the front corners.
||1664-65 The child's coif shows clearly the drawstring in the back! The woman
wears a long wide apron and a round partlet.
|1665 Another sick lady with the linen band/coif that goes across her forehead
and the loose open hood.
||1665 Another example of the tiny coif that covers nothing but the hair
bun in the back.
||1665 This young cook maid wears a tucker in her bodice.
|1665 This farmer's wide wears a stiffened front-laced sleeveless bodice
over a jacket bodice and her coif is very practical, tied at the back.
||1665 This rural lady wears an open hood similar to the one in the Mica
portrait, with straight lines, framing the face.
||1665 The back of a hood, the gathering clearly visible.
| 1665-68 This lady's coif/caul looks suspiciously Elizabethan with
its widow's peek and the caul in the back.
||1668 Similar to the one directly above, hers has a wide lace edging in
||1669 Two market sellers, modest with tuckers and kerchiefs and clip-on