Nicole Kipar
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The 1660s
Restoration Costume Comes to Life

Part 3, Page 9
Gentry and Aristocracy, Men:
Reconstructed garments

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Lower Class Women and Men Gentry and Aristocracy, Women Gentry and Aristocracy, Men The Whole Look: Accessories Costume Focus: Women's Headwear & Neckwear


Andrew in a military uniform of the later part of the decade, wearing the long loose coat. His sleeves are 3/4 in contrast to the officer, whose sleeve is shorter to be able to show of he finery of the shirt. Ben in a suit copying the style of the later decade, from around 1666 onwards. Wearing baggy breeches which are closed at the knee and the short waistcoat underneath the new long loosely shaped coat. He chose to wear his cravat in a loose bow, edged with lace.
A close-up of the baldrick with small sword in it. A soldier had a so-called hanger, but an officer and a gentleman wore the finer smallsword, which was just now starting to take over from the rapier of the first half of the 17th c. The baldrick is covered with velvet and edged with a gold brush fringe. Breeches laid out, their fullness can be seen well. They are made from fine worsted and lined with linen.
The coat and the waistcoat underneath. The lining is a scarlet silk and gold lace as well as silk ribbons adorn the sleeves. There are over 40 buttonholes on the coat, but in period there would have been even more. Military arrangement with soldier's coat, buff leather baldrick, hanger, pewter plate and cutlery and the regimental drum.
Close-ups of the small sword, which is very plain compared to many period examples. The grip is decorated with a dark blue silk thread twisted with a fine silver wire and then wound around the wooden core.
The blade is not yet diamond shaped, that occurs only after 1700. Here he is, Lord Brompton in all his finery at Vaux-le-Vicomte in the beautiful sunshine.

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Nicole Kipar 1998