c.1400 embroidered silk chasuble (paraments)

Photos taken in December 2015 in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg.

Chasuble, formerly in St Mary’s church (Gdanks) now in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg.
Italian silk damask, lining Portuguese silk lampas, silk and gold metal embroidery Prague c.1400.

1400 chasuble 01 1400 chasuble 02 1400 chasuble 05 1400 chasuble 09

Flickr set:

Nancy Spies’ excellent historical tablet weaving publications available on her website!

I hate to use the word “cheap”, because nothing is cheap about Nancy’s invaluable work on historical tablet weaving and patterns, but have you tried purchasing a copy? As dear as gold-dust on the used book circuit since they are not otherwise available as hard copies.

Imagine my surprise and immense delight when I realised that Nancy sells her books on her website as PDFs to download. They are the exact same publications as the printed versions, and you won’t believe the prices, it is wonderful. You may even order a printout of the books. The wording below was taken from Nancy’s website.

Spies EPACECCLESIASTICAL POMP AND ARISTOCRATIC CIRCUMSTANCE: A THOUSAND YEARS OF BROCADED TABLETWOVEN BANDS (includes errata pages)

This book details the history of the craft of brocaded tablet weaving from the sixth to the sixteenth century. It analyses data from the bands, including their metallic and fiber content. It presents examples of tablet weaving in literature and art and describes the types of patterns and where they were produced.

It lists the many uses for the
bands and gives an overview of historical looms and tablets. In addition, the author has graphed numerous historical brocading patterns.

The book concludes with a catalogue of brocaded tabletwoven bands and an annotated bibliography. The errata pages have been included at the end of the book.
$12

Spies ModelbuchANNA NEUPER’S MODELBUCH: EARLY SIXTEENTH-CENTURY PATTERNS FOR WEAVING BROCADED BANDS

A small, leather-covered book of handwritten patterns for gold brocaded tabletwoven bands resides in the Herzog August Bibliothek in Wolfenbuttel, Germany. Written in
1517 by Anna Neuper, a seventy-year-old nun in the St. Clare Convent in Nurnberg, it contains forty-five different patterns with variations and is among the earliest
pattern books for any textile technique.

These patterns have been transcribed into modern charts and are presented with background information by Nancy Spies with Ute Bargmann.

This book is a must for every tablet weaver and anyone who can work from graphed designs.
$5

Spies wyvernsHERE BE WYVERNS: HUNDREDS OF PATTERNS GRAPHED FROM MEDIEVAL SOURCES

Authentic patterns from the Middle Ages — imaginary creatures, people, birds, lettering, architecture, overall designs, and borders — are here available for use by any
craftsperson who uses graphed designs.

The patterns have been taken from sources dating from the sixth to the sixteenth century C.E., and every sources is documented.

Whether you are a needleworker, a knitter, a weaver, a beader, a mosaic maker, a quilter, or a textile historian, this book should be in your library. It is filled with over
400 patterns to inspire you.
$8

Spies drolleries HERE BE DROLLERIES: HUNDREDS MORE PATTERNS GRAPHED FROM MEDIEVAL SOURCES

This book is a second treasure trove of over 400 designs graphed from medieval sources.

You can use these patterns for any kind of needlework and handwork, such
as cross-stitch, knitting or crochet, for weaving or mosaic work, or even for stenciling a child’s room.
$8

Fieldtrip: Landesmuseum Zürich, Switzerland

On 18th June 2015 I went to the Landesmuseum in Zürich, which I had visited the previous year and had been very impressed with their pre-1600 textiles (esp embroideries) on display. Andrea Franzen, curator of textiles, was so kind to meet with me on short notice, and a photography pass had also been prepared for me. I would like to say that the staff at the museum was extremely helpful and friendly and I can’t thank them enough, which expressly includes the librarians. I am hoping to return and to gain access to the reserve collection for detailed study of seam treatments on textile fragments between 1510 and 1530.

The museum has an excellent online collection with high quality images, which can also be licensed and obtained in high resolution. I was very lucky that the special exhibition 1515 Marignano had been extended, which fitted right into my current focus. No photos from the latter, photography was not allowed in there, but I can recommend the catalogue.

I will be posting photos that I am able to share, for fellow historical dress & textile enthusiasts.

Detail of chasuble
Detail of chasuble 1600-1800