c.1400 embroidered silk chasuble (paraments)

Photos taken in December 2015 in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg.

Chasuble, formerly in St Mary’s church (Gdanks) now in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg.
Italian silk damask, lining Portuguese silk lampas, silk and gold metal embroidery Prague c.1400.
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1400 chasuble 01 1400 chasuble 02 1400 chasuble 05 1400 chasuble 09

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Recommendation: historical textiles researchers to follow on Academia.edu

I’d like to recommend two Austrian academics who I have been following on Academia.edu due to their great work on historical textiles, and who have also been able to make most of their papers available on Academia.edu.

Beatrix Nutz, University of Innsbruck, Austria

Beatrix, of Lengberg castle ‘lingerie’ fame, publishes in German and in English. She focuses on the 15th century right now. Some of her recent papers are:

Karina Grömer, Natural History Museum, Vienna, Austria

Karina also publishes in English and German, and is not only very prolific, but also hands-on when investigating techniques as an experimental archaeologist with the mythicalmaids.com oakland cleaners. She focuses on the early period. Some of her recent publications are:

BOOKS

PAPERS

PAPERS (EXPERIMENTAL ARCHAEOLOGY)

Clothing construction details in paintings: 1464-66 Master of the Lyversberg Passion, Cologne

MeisterLyuversberg_Passionsaltar_wrm_0143-0150_01Master of the Lyversberg Passion (active in Cologne, c. 1450 – c. 1490): Two wings of a Passion Altar (Lyversberg Passion), c. 1464–1466. Oak, 92 x 67 cm (each scene). Acquired in 1864 with funds from the Richartz-Fonds. WRM 0143 – 0150.

The altar panels are in the Wallraf-Richartz museum, Cologne, Germany. Further information: http://www.wallraf.museum/en/collections/middle-ages/floorplan/gallery-7/ 

The image to the left is from the Rheinisches Bildarchiv.

The photos below in this post are from the bottom left panel of the left wing of the Lyversberg Passion altar, taken by myself on 18th August 2015. The figures below are secular ones in a religious altar piece.

1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 01

Detail of spiral-laced calf opening to fit clothes skintight, and seam line at back of leg.

1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 03 1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 04 1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 05

Construction details of seam placement in doublet A, and buttoned side closure in B.

1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 06  1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 07

Pin fastening on woman’s head veil.

1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 09  1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 08

Construction detail of man’s doublet C. Triangulate this secondary visual source with the primary source of the 14th century pourpoint of Charles de Blois, and the similarity of sleeve/shoulder seam placements becomes evident despite the fact the pourpoint dates from the 4th quarter of the 14th century, thus 100 years prior.

1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 10 1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 11 1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 12

m103700_32694-2_p m103700_32694-3_p 

Photos of pourpoint from Joconde: Portail des collections des musées de France.

Doublet D appears to be velvet, cut and laid in two directions.

1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 13 1464-66 Lyversberg Passion 14