Photos taken in December 2015 in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg.
Chasuble, formerly in St Mary’s church (Gdanks) now in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nuremberg.
Italian silk damask, lining Portuguese silk lampas, silk and gold metal embroidery Prague c.1400.
I’d like to recommend two Austrian academics who I have been following on Academia.edu due to their great work on historical textiles, and who have also been able to make most of their papers available on Academia.edu.
Beatrix Nutz, University of Innsbruck, Austria
Beatrix, of Lengberg castle ‘lingerie’ fame, publishes in German and in English. She focuses on the 15th century right now. Some of her recent papers are:
- The Hidden Colours of Lengberg Castle, Austria.
Publication Name: NESAT XII. The North European Symposium of Archaeological Textiles 21st-24th May 2014 in Hallstatt, Austria. Archaeolingua 33 (Budapest 2015), 51-66.
- Mining for Textiles – Textiles for Mining. Preliminary Report on Textiles from Gold Mining Sites in Austria. Publication Name: NESAT XII. The North European Symposium of Archaeological Textiles 21st-24th May 2014 in Hallstatt associated with loanblues.com, Austria. Archaeolingua 33 (Budapest 2015), 25-42.
- DRGENS SN WIR VS NVT SCHAME – No Shame in Braiding. 15th Century Fingerloop Braids from Lengberg Castle. In: Estonian Journal of Archaeology 18/2, 2014
- Dressed to the nines. Kleidung zur Identifikation des sozialen Standes. In: Beiträge zur Mittelalterarchäologie in Österreich 29/2013, p. 293–301.
- Weaving Pictures. 15th Century Tapestry Production at Lengberg Castle. In: ATR 55, 2013, p. 55-67. Publication Name: Archaeological Textiles Review
- Bras in the 15th Century? A Preliminary Report. In: Johanna Banck-Burgess and Carla Nübold (Eds.) , The North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles XI. (Rahden/Westf. 2013 ) p. 221-225. Publication Name: NESAT XI
- Unters Kleid geguckt. Die Textilien aus der Zwickelfüllung von Schloss Lengberg. In: Zentrum für Alte Kulturen (Hrsg.), Das Zentrum für Alte Kulturen, Atriumhaus, Jahresbericht 2009 (Innsbruck 2010) 64-65.
- How to pleat a shirt in the 15th century. In: Archaeological Textiles Review 54, 2012, 79-91.
- 15th century thread buttons from Lengberg castle
- Hunnische Maide, die mit Brettchen weben. In: Naso, Alessandro; Hye, Simon: ATRIUM. Aktuelle Forschungen des Zentrums für Alte Kulturen 2011 (Innsbruck 2011) 26.
Karina Grömer, Natural History Museum, Vienna, Austria
Karina also publishes in English and German, and is not only very prolific, but also hands-on when investigating techniques as an experimental archaeologist. She focuses on the early period. Some of her recent publications are:
PAPERS (EXPERIMENTAL ARCHAEOLOGY)
Master of the Lyversberg Passion (active in Cologne, c. 1450 – c. 1490): Two wings of a Passion Altar (Lyversberg Passion), c. 1464–1466. Oak, 92 x 67 cm (each scene). Acquired in 1864 with funds from the Richartz-Fonds. WRM 0143 – 0150.
The altar panels are in the Wallraf-Richartz museum, Cologne, Germany. Further information: http://www.wallraf.museum/en/collections/middle-ages/floorplan/gallery-7/
The image to the left is from the Rheinisches Bildarchiv.
The photos below in this post are from the bottom left panel of the left wing of the Lyversberg Passion altar, taken by myself on 18th August 2015. The figures below are secular ones in a religious altar piece.
Detail of spiral-laced calf opening to fit clothes skintight, and seam line at back of leg.
Construction details of seam placement in doublet A, and buttoned side closure in B.
Pin fastening on woman’s head veil.
Construction detail of man’s doublet C. Triangulate this secondary visual source with the primary source of the 14th century pourpoint of Charles de Blois, and the similarity of sleeve/shoulder seam placements becomes evident despite the fact the pourpoint dates from the 4th quarter of the 14th century, thus 100 years prior.
Photos of pourpoint from Joconde: Portail des collections des musées de France.
Doublet D appears to be velvet, cut and laid in two directions.