All of the following
images open in a new window for a detailed study. All of them are details
taken from paintings.
Undershirts, or shifts, or in French chemises still seem not to have drawstrings,
but to say they never have drawstrings would be wrong. One painting
of Nell Gwynne by all means shows a drawstring in a casing, but all others
show indeed a slit in the front or none at all and gathering into a band.
Shifts are generally
made from a very fine linen, and when you want to recreate one, try to
find the finest linen possible, because fine cotton batiste has a different
feel and look to it than linen. If it is impossible to find a very fine
linen, which is sadly often the case, then substitute with the aforementioned
cotton batiste, which is softer than linen is and not cool to the touch.
In some instances it will be necessary to substitute, for example the
very sheer neckerchiefs, which just don't fall nor look right with available
thin linens and in the later part of the Baroque period, the fine line
caps, lappets for the fontange etc. Some looks cannot be achieved either
regarding frills of cuffs, because the linen in modern thin weights cannot
be gathered in such bulk and still fall so freely and luxuriously, but
it appears to be too stiff and too thick. These are the times when you
have to look for a good source of fine cotton batiste. In fact, cotton
did start to replace the finest linen fabric, which is cambric, towards
the end of the 17th century, but by the 1660s it was still linen which
was the favourite, and of course the cheaper fabric.
One word, which is a very frustrating one, it is impossible to get such
a fine linen cambric nowadays, and even when vendors try to sell you the
so-called handkerchief linen for exorbitant prices, be aware it is not the fine sheer linen muslin in which the court beauties were so translucently
and voluminously wrapped, because the flax plant that produced this extraordinarily
fine linen thread died out in the 19th century due to climate changes.
This is the same reason why even if there were still such skills around
to produce this stunning Venetian Gros Point needlepoint lace, it is impossible,
because the thread cannot be produced anymore. The plant is extinct.
It is very advisable
not to save when it comes to the correct fabrics, all the work will be
in vain and a magnificent silk upper class gown will look cheap if the
fabrics are wrong, and this starts with the undergarments. Furthermore
you need the shifts to soak up any perspiration and linen is the best
in this, keeping you fairly cool in summer, cotton is the second best
choice but it feels warmer. My own bodice, the blue one, shows large stains
of perspiration on the linen lining, but the linen shift has worked a
treat and even in the heat of the day at Vaux-le-Vicomte no stain appeared
on the surface.
The
chemise frills are double tired and very finely pleated. Lace edges
the cuff frills and the sleeves are very wide. |
The
Duchess of Lauderdale wears a chemise that shows how the width of
the fabric of the body is gathered at the neckline into a band. |
Barbara
Villiers Duchess of Cleveland's chemise shows the same gathering at
the neckline and the same narrow band. |
Nell
Gwynne in an interesting chemise with a wide flounce and a slit in
the front. The fullness appears to be gathered again onto a narrow
band and the flounce is sewn onto it or the band sewn into the fine
gathers. The narrow band would be used to tie the chemise closed at
the slit. |
The
sleeves have double tiered cuff frills and are gathered with the help
of interesting silk ribbons tied in wide and large bows. |
Queen Henrietta Maria's chemise has sleeves with double lace tiers. |
Nell
Gwynne in the very famous portrait by Verelst and a chemise which
shows that drawstrings were occasionally used. Here very clearly the
extremely wide neckline was turned over at the top and in this fold
a tunnel was created through which a ribbon was pulled. The ribbon
can be seen in the front and the way the drawstring has creased the
fold shows that indeed it is a drawstring. There is no way though
with the linens available that this effect could be created, it would
be far too thick and bulky in the neckline. |
Drawing
of a woman in a chemise which has fallen off her shoulders. |
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