Nicole Kipar
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The 1660s
Restoration Costume Comes to Life

Part 2, Page 10
Gentry and Aristocracy, Women:Costume Reconstruction: Underpinnings

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Lower Class Women and Men Gentry and Aristocracy, Women Gentry and Aristocracy, Men The Whole Look: Accessories Costume Focus: Women's Headwear & Neckwear

All of the following images open in a new window for a detailed study.

Here is the bumroll that Bjarne made, to be worn with my dress. The chemise I opted for has wide sleeves and frills with an exquisite chemical lace that looks a bit like a Gros point needle point lace. It is calf length and the neckline is gathered into a band.
The cuff is gathered into a band as well and the silk ribbon that is pulled through merely does the job of fastening it securely so that the sleeve doesn't slip down. When worn the ribbon is crossed and then pulled back up and tied into a bow looking just like so many paintings, giving the luxurious billowy folds. The drawstring which peeps through does not actually a function of a drawstring, because you can see that it is gathered into a band. I wanted one just to make sure though and had found evidence in a painting, which you can see on the page on chemises.
This is the pattern for the shift you see above. It is made from nothing but rectangles and triangles.  

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Nicole Kipar 1998