All of the following
images open in a new window for a detailed study.
With many thanks to Anne Sophie, who models her costume in these photos.
The dress she is wearing and working on is the one she made entirely on
her own, using Janet Arnold's pattern. With
many thanks again to Ben who still enjoys the lacing even after many many
times and too many whining ladies.
When you make such
a dress using preferably Janet Arnold's small scale pattern then never
forget to make a toile and always bear in mind that if the toile is boned
lightly just for the fitting and it fits well, the final garment will
be boned much heavier and thus he bodice will be much tighter!
PS. The making of
the dress you see here took place in the middle of the night with pictures
taking about 2 am on the very night before the very first show... I could
not believe it but Anne Sophie, Comtesse de Neville was fully dressed
in the morning!
The
first fitting of the bodice over the chemise and Ben is using ordinary
string for a lacing cord. The tabs are unbound and the sleeves not
even cut out yet. |
Fiddling
with the lacing holes which are a little small. You can see the chemise
sleeves have not been gathered yet at the cuffs. |
This
is the facial expression one has when the stiffly boned bodice is
a little too tight and laced a little too fast! The tabs on the front
can be seen very well. |
The
same lacing technique is used which can be seen on the ivory knife
handle from 1660. It creates diagonal stripes. |
A
good view of the tabs in the back, the lacing and the very low set
armholes. It is easy to see why a lady cannot raise her arms. |
The bumroll is fastened around the waist to make sure the skirts sit
on the right height and in the right way. The neckline is cut very
low. |
Anne
Sophie did not cartridge pleat the petticoat and skirt but knife pleat
it. She had less material available and though most of the skirts
seems to have Ben cartridge pleated there is evidence for knife pleats.
Here the dress with the petticoat. |
The
dress with skirt as well, which was already gold lace. I am helping
her here to find the right spot for the gold lace on the bodice. The
broad lace she found in Paris is applied down the front and tucked
under at neckline and stomacher. |
With
the centre rows secured I pin the lace along the curved seam at the
front so that it can be sewn down. She finished the dress at about
4 am and we had to get up at 6. The joys of re-enactment... |
Here
she is, in all her glory, Anne Sophie d'Armagnac, Comtesse de Neville
at Vaux-le-Vicomte in beige silk dress and sheer silk neckerchief
along the neckline. |
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