Nicole Kipar's late 17th century Clothing History

Painting Gallery 1660s
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France and England

Dutch paintings are on their separate pages.

Louis XIV at the siege of Dunkirk, 2 December 1662. Detail from the Gobelin tapestry, after Le Brun and van der Meulen. Note the plumed hat and the riding boots. French	Louis XIV at the Académie de Sciences, 1666. Detail, Testelin. Note the ribbons at his breeches, shirt, cravat and on his right shoulder. French	Louis XIV visits the Gobelins Manufactory, 15 October 1667. Detail from the Gobelin tapestry, after Le Brun. Note the short sleeved early Justaucorps. French
Entry of Louis XIV and Marie-Thèrése into Arras, 30 July 1667. Detail, van der Meulen. The King, with his brother, follows the coach with the Queen. French	Louis XIV receiving Swiss Ambassadors, 1663. Van der Meulen. Note the petticoat breeches with numerous ribbon bows and the large shoe bows. Versailles museum. French	A Moor presenting a Parrot to a Lady. Mid 1660s. Nicolaes Berchem. Note the hooked up overskirt, the white silk petticoat showing underneath.
Charles II in Coronation Robes, 1661. J.M. Wright. Note the off-white red heeled shoes with the jewelled rosette, the silver tissue fabric of the hose and ribbons and the rich lace collar (Venetian Gros Point). English	Charles II at a Ball in The Hague, 1660. Charles dancing with his sister Mary at a ball given just before the King's departure for England, which he was never to leave again. Note the deep and rich lace berthas around the necklines of the ladies' dresses. English	Minister Colbert. (1619-1683) Note the rich needlepoint lace, the white lined black doublet with split sleeves and the embroidered order of the state on his minister's robe. French
Siege of Douain, 1667. Detail from a tapestry. Note the buff leather coat of the King's guard in the foreground, who falls off his horse, over a short sleeved Justaucorps, and his bucket top boots. Note the interesting Justaucorps of the man on the left. French	Earl of Salisbury, 1669. J.M. Wright. James, the young fourth Earl of Salisbury with his sister Lady Catherine Cecil. Note the girl's lace edgings on her apron and bodice, and the silver threads woven into the fabric. James wears the child's frock. English	Louis XIV in State Robes. Henry Testelin. Note the large shoe bows. French
The Duke of York as head of the Admiralty. Henri Gascars. The Duke of York became James II after Charles II's death. He is dressed in this painting in allegorical Romanesque costume. Note the silver and gold embroidery on the cloak and the metal lace. English	Louise Keroualle, Charles II's Mistress. Pierre Mignard. She became later the Duchess of Portsmouth. Note the beautiful sleeves of her gown, and the way the lace of the chemises shows at her neckline. English	Minister Seguier attending Louis XIV's entry into Paris in 1660, 1661. Note the pages' old fashioned livrées. Charles Le Brun. Paris, Louvre. French
Young Girl, c. 1660. G. Netscher. Note the way the lace collar is fastened around the neckline of the dress, a so-called bertha. Her chemises is closed at her throat.	Louis XIV at the Academie de Sciences. 1666. Full version of the detail depicted above. Note the red feathers on his hat. French	The Family of Sir Richard Saltonstall. David des Granges, c. 1660. Note the man's doublet with split sleeves, and the heels of his shoes. The children are dressed identical to the adults. English
Duke and Duchess of Lauderdale. ca. 1667. Peter Lely. Note the richness of the Duke's shirt sleeves and the neckline and sleeves of the chemises which is seen underneath the Duchess' dress. English	Tric Trac Players. Mathieu Le Nain, 1650s. Note the loose-ended breeches with ribbons and the bucket top boots with boot hose. French	Queen Marie-Therese in State Robes. Unknown painter. Note the deep lace bertha around the neckline of her robe. French
Aerial View of Versailles, 1668. French	Barbara Palmer, Charles II's Mistress, 1660s. She became later the Duchess of Cleveland. Note the combination of colours which is so typical for women's dress in the 1660s: blue with a yellowish brown. English	Emperor Leopold I of Austria, c. 1660. By Jan Thomas. Leopold, the Holy Roman Emperor, reigned from 1657-1705. Note his theatrical dress, as a shepherd, in the current fashion of short-sleeved doublet and loose-ended breeches, with plenty of gold lace to indicate his divine origin.
Procession of Charles II's Restoration to the Throne, (thumbnail shows a detail, large version full) 1661. Dirk Stoop. The procession as it leaves the Tower of London for Westminster. English	Man with black bows, 1660s. Sébastien Bourdon. Note the typical way of this decade to fasten the shirt sleeves at the wrist with black ribbons. Montpellier, Musée Fabré. French	Frances Stewart, Charles II's Mistress, 1665. Peter Lely. Note the way the outer garment is closed over the bodice: held in place by pearl fastenings, otherwise open. English
Louis XIV with the Spanish Ambassador to Negotiate his Wedding, 1660. French	Mademoiselle de La Vallière and her Children, Louis XIV's Mistress. French	Mademoiselle de La Vallière, Louis XIV's Mistress. La Vallière is depicted as Diana, the Goddess of the hunt. Note the way of fastening of her robe over the bodice. French
Queen Marie-Thérèse and the Dauphin. Pierre Mignard. Note the extremely elaborate jewellery embroidered onto her robe, which is most probably a masquerade costume. French	Catherine of Braganza, 1661. The Queen Dowager, wife of Charles II. She wears a farthingale which, like those of her Portuguese ladies, caused contemptuous comment among Englishmen when she arrived from Portugal. By or after Dick Stoop. English	Anne Hyde. Wife of James, Duke of York, 1660s. Anne Hyde, daughter of the Lord Chancellor, Edward Hyde and James' first wife. She had a strong influence over him in his move toward the Catholic Church and his eventual conversion. Portrait by Peter Lely. English