Nicole Kipar's late 17th century Clothing History

Engraving Gallery 1670s
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France and England

Procession, 1674. English	Gentleman, 1675	Gentleman, 1675
Gentleman, 1675	Gentleman, 1678	Charles II. English
Officier. Wearing a large brimmed hat, not turned back yet. The early rather straight Justaucorps is tailored to the figure, the skirts not flared yet, and made from brocade. Ribbon bows en masse at the sides of his rhinegraves over culottes (breeches) and on the waistband. Note: the justaucorps doesn't reach down to the knees yet, 1673. French	Officier, The hat begins to be gently cocked up, adorned with ostrich plumes, arranged in a radial. Small ribbon bows on each sides of his wig in the front. The baldrick is very broad. Note: the sash with a tasselled fringe, knotted on the left side, 1675. French	Noble Couple, 1671. French
Court Dress, Hairdress à la Duchesse with Cruches, long locks falling over her shoulders. Narrow pearl necklace with cross. Note: the manteau is by now held back with jewelled fasteners. The long trained manteau is lined with a brocaded fabric, 1679. French	Summer Dress, 1675.	Summer Dress. The lady is wearing the hurluberlu coiffure, covered with a lace headscarf. Note that the manteau isn't yet held up with ribbon bows or jewelled fasteners, but instead held back with one hand or by a page, so that the lining is seen of the robe, as well as on the turned back cuffs on her sleeves, 1673. French
Winter Dress, Hurluberlu coiffure worn with a coeffe (two gauze-veils). Patches in her face. She is wearing pearl earrings in drop shapes and a one row pearl necklace, as well as a pearl bracelet over her chemise sleeves. The robe (upper skirt with train) is made from fur with a broad lace volant, the jupe has two lace volants, called pala. 1678. French	Summer Dress, 1670s, Note the extensive use of broad laces on her apron, and what looks like a cape. French	Two Men Playing Pell Mell, early 1670s. It is interesting to note, that they are wearing flounces on their breeches, those flounces could be from the stockings (remains of the fashion of the lace topped boothose) or they could be attached to the breeches, the so-called cannons. English
Coursing Fallow Deer with Greyhounds, early 1670s. The sword is still worn on a baldrick, only in around 1685 did the sword waistbelt come into use in the military. Note also there are no buttons yet at the centre back vent of the coats. By Wenceslaus Hollar. English	Hawking of Herons, early 1670s. Note that the gentleman on the horse is wearing high heeled long boots with obviously a lace topped boothose in them, while his footman is wearing low heeled, practical shoes which are fastened with a ribbon, and still have the cut-out insteps from earlier. By Wenceslaus Hollar. English	Mary of Modena, 1670s. Mary was the second wife of James, Duke of York. Unusually, here she is portrayed wearing a man's clothing - brocaded coat, shirt and cravat. Although this is a painting, it is in this section, because no colour reproduction was available. Painting by Verelst. English